at 0.5% in Woman in Gold (By Kilian, 2017) by
Calice Becker, where it brings fluidity and aura
to a powdery sweet rose accord around Petaliaj
and Rosyfoliak in a floral chypre context with
Akigalawoodl for structure and contrast. The
name “Nympheal” was inspired by Claude Monet’s
(1840–1926) series of paintings featuring water
lilies, “nymphéas” in French. Offered to the French
State by the artist as a ‘monument to peace’
in response to the horrors of World War I, Les
Nymphéas were installed according to Monet’s plan
at the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris and opened
to the public on May 16, 1927. One of the largest
paintings of the 20th century, the masterpiece
encompasses almost 100 meters, providing as the
artist said an “illusion of an endless whole, of a
wave with no horizon and no shore.” Of the many
different water lilies, one of the most beautiful
is certainly the white nenuphar, Nymphea alba L.
(vide infra on the insert with the perfume samples)
The Success Story of Lilial
with its typical aquatic floral odor reminiscent
of lily-of-the-valley flowers and water melon.
Nympheal ( 10) features a floral muguet and
cyclamen note similar to Lilial ( 3), with additional
fruity, aquatic and linden blossom facets. While
similar to Lilial ( 3) in character, Nympheal ( 10) is
much more powerful both in terms of odor thresh-
old and in its function in perfume formulation.
But before we enter into greater detail regarding
the discovery of Nympheal ( 10), let us first look at
the features of Lilial ( 3) that made it so successful
in perfumery. As already mentioned, the ingredient is very cost-efficient throughout all stages of a
perfume, especially in the dry-down – a most important feature in fabric and personal care. Moreover,
it is truly an odorant that is almost equally popular
in all segments. Lilial ( 3) has a floral transparency
close to Hedionem, the freshness and cleanliness of
the linear aldehydes, even going into slightly marine
and water-melon fruitiness, but all that on a floral
m Hedione is a registered trademark of Firmenich.
F- 3. Synthetic routes to Lilial ( 3).
j,k,l Petalia, Rosyfolia and Akigalawood are registered tradenames of Givaudan.