As well as improving
levels of deposition, the
industry is working to
gain more control over
the stability of the
Instead of microscopic capsules, the strategy is to
employ ecofriendly visual ingredients that are visible
when suspended in a shampoo, a shower gel formula
or in a white emulsion. The visual ingredients are
made of cellulose and sugar and they disintegrate
and disappear when the finished product is used. The
active ingredients are incorporated in the cellulose
matrix and the sugar enables this to harden upon
drying. The eco-friendly visual cues can be manufactured in a range of three-dimensional shapes such as
beads, hearts, stars or flowers. These attractive visual
features open up a new channel for direct communication with the consumer. Once added to the
formula, the shapes become soft in a matter of few
hours or days.
By combining the technology in flavor and fragrance delivery with visually attractive eco-friendly
visual cues, consumers can experience an enhanced
smell and taste experience in their products. In the
case of fragrance, researchers are looking at the
possibility of creating a capsule that carries both
a fragrance and an active ingredient, which would
deliver long-term sense impressions, as well as,
active molecules into the skin.
A platform for future innovation
It takes years to develop and master these technologies and then turn prototypes into marketable
products that are compliant and safe. Usually
companies in the field might specialize in one area
of application such as fragrance or flavor, but very
rarely do they have all three fields running in parallel. But when a company does have access to all
three fields, it can build up a pyramid of expertise
and through developing synergies create a real technological and market advantage.
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Fragrances: Springer Verlag (2007) p 440.
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household, Presentation at InCosmetics 2015.
3. HA Jerri, M Jaquemond, C Hansen, L Ouali and P Erni,
“Suction caps”: Designing anisotropic core/shell microcapsules
with controlled membrane mechanics and substrate affinity,
Adv Funct Mat 1-14 (2016), DOI: 10.1002/adfm.201601563.
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C Geffroy, Microencapsulated fragrances in melamine
formaldehyde resins, Chimia 65 ( 3) 177 (2011).
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and in vivo, Bioencapsulation Innovation Feb 8-10 (2016).
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perfumes, C Geffroy, SS Schreiber, MJ Goodall, A Fadel, IM
Harrison, US Patent application (Feb 12, 2015).
7. A Gharsallaoui et al, Applications of spray-drying in
microencapsulation of food ingredients: An overview, Food
Research International 40 1107–1121 (2007).
8. PS Given Jr, Encapsulation of Flavors in Emulsions for
Beverages, Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science 14
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Flavouring Composition” (2005).
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(2016). doi: 10.1007/s11483-015-9405-4.
The technology is a successful means of improving the visual appeal of certain products, but it also
has the potential to be used as a delivery system and
at the same time visually communicate the presence
of an ingredient in the formula.
A key feature of the visible sphere technology is
the lack of a hermetic shell or outer layer. Rather
than encapsulate, the spheres entrap the active
ingredient or molecule. The same system can be
used in cosmetics and personal care products to
entrap pigments. For example, it would be possible
to make a transparent formula that changes color
as the spheres break down on application to the
skin, such as a soap for children that produces blue
foam. For this purpose, 40 per cent of the pigment is
entrapped in the cellulose core; then the shapes are
coated with another color to disguise the pigmented
center. The technique of coating spheres with a color
that is different to the one they deliver can also be
applied in makeup products, to boost their consumer
appeal. For example, a brown-pigmented sphere with
a white external layer would completely disappear in
a white emulsion. On application the formula would
become a foundation.