Event Report: Fragrance Ingredient
Highlights from the British Society of Perfumers’ one-day symposium.
The British Society of Perfumers’ (BSP) one-day symposium recently took place at Whittlebury Hall Hotel, Towcester, Northamptonshire, offering perfumers
and other fragrance industry professionals an opportunity to
smell and discuss fragrance ingredients.
The attendees spent the day visiting a series of ingredient
presentations from suppliers, including natural and synthetic
products for everything from fine fragrance to personal care to
home care products.
The day’s talks were followed by a dinner, which featured the
BSP’s fragrance excellence awards, honoring scented products
from fine fragrance to home care.
Axxence presented a range of ingredients produced at its
Slovakian operation. The company uses bioconversion, isolation
technology, soft chemistry, oxidation and reduction, hydrolysis
and sulfur introduction chemistry techniques to produce its
Primarily focused on flavor materials, the company has
created a number of fragrance ingredients from the enzymes
of plantains grown on some 310 ha in Plavinca, Slovakia, including trans-2-hexenal. The process employs the use of added
fatty acids and water, but is otherwise similar to the grass-cutting process, according to Axxence’s Peter Van der Schaft.
The ingredient is then chemoisolated from the process’ “broth”
via spinning-cone-column separation and distilled and purified.
The company processed 7,200 metric tons of plantains in 2013,
Axxence’s Ron Honing said. The wastewater from this process
can be recycled directly to the land, making for a relatively
environmentally friendly process.
Samples of the trans-2-hexenol presented by the company
were intended to be dosed at 20 ppm in a finished product and
imparted a green, fruity and apple impression.
The company is also able to produce natural styrallyl
acetate from carrot. A sample of the material was intended to
be dosed at 12 ppm in a finished product and was had a profile
that was fruity, berrylike, yellow fruitlike and tropical.
Another product in the company’s pipeline is 2,6-nonadi-
enal, derived from cucumber.
The company is also able to isolate rose oxide from geranium
oil. A sample that was presented was intended to be dosed at 2
ppm in a finished product and had an olfactive profile that was
green, herbal, mangolike and appropriate for red fruit flavors.
b-Damascenone, intended to be dosed at 10 ppm in a
finished product, had a profile that was fruity, berrylike, red
fruitlike and tropical.
A sample of indole received quite a bit of attention. Intended
to be dosed at 2 ppm in a finished product, the material was
appropriate for animal and earthy notes, tobacco and savory
Finally, an angelica root oil sample was distributed. The
material has been processed in order to concentrate the percentage of macrocyclic lactones to boost the musk and herbal
aspects of the material. The ingredient also had a fruity quality
and could be interesting in combination with orris and tuberose.
Today’s concentrated bases are aggressive, particularly in
the detergent, fabric softener and high-performance cleaner
segments, explained Treatt’s Andrew Campbell and Vince
Skeels during the company’s presentation. As a result, high-impact, low-dose ingredients are highly sought-after—if they
offer competitive prices and stability in-use. In response, Treatt
has launched its Merit T+ range, which is intended to provide
formulators with concentrated products with strong fragrances
and stable performance. In addition, the products reportedly
shield formulators from the price fluctuations of citruses such as
orange, lemon and lime, offering the ability to dose at a higher
rate at equivalent cost to natural oils.
For example, the presenters explained that the lemon
Merit T+ can be dosed at a lower level in a shampoo compared
to lemon oil. The presenters circulated lemon fantasy accords
with lemon oil and another with lemon Merit T+.
Treatt also showed lime Merit T+ in shampoo; the lime
material had fruity and green top notes and imparted freshness to formulations. Mandarin Merit T+ was free of dimethyl
Symrise presented a range of ingredients in applications
from personal care to fine fragrance to home care, including
hand soaps, air fresheners, fabric softeners and liquid detergents.
The BSP held a dinner following the event.