Beginning with an introduction by the Research Institute
for Fragrance Materials’ (RIFM) president, James Romine,
the organization’s 49th annual general meeting focused on the
journey toward transparency. It’s imperative that companies
have the ability to show all of their data and research to the
public, said Romine. Trust in the industry is at an all-time low,
and so the organization is focusing its attention toward the
safety of fragrance materials with the intention of redirecting
the public’s discourse to a science-based foundation. Romine
added that RIFM’s current activities provide it the “opportunity
to align science, advocacy and outreach to support industry’s
commitment to product safety and fulfill the RIFM vision.”
Enhancing the industry’s integrity, independence and cred-
ibility were the focus of a presentation by Daniel Liebler, who
is a member of RIFM’s expert panel (REXPAN). Critics have
questioned whether REXPAN is a biased evaluation organiza-
tion, a topic Liebler addressed in his talk. According to RIFM,
in order to avoid bias during the data review process, REXPAN
Industry
Changing the Fragrance Transparency Conversation
comprises a group of independent academic and medical professionals who are experts in their fields to provide an objective
perspective of the industry. REXPAN members only receive a
small stipend in return, as well as expenses. Once the data is
approved, the information is available publicly in peer-reviewed
literature. This published data is based on publicly available
information from which the panel can evaluate exposures,
collect safety data, bridge data gaps and draw conclusions on
toxicology. Carcinogen and respiratory toxicology are the most
studied areas, Liebler said, whereas sensitization and reproductive areas are subjects requiring further study.
The 49th annual RIFM meeting concluded with a panel of fra-
grance influencers who have gained consumer insights through
each of their platforms. The panel was led by Kelly Jones,
marketing director of Takasago, and comprised the following
speakers:
•;Karen;Dubin,;founder;and;CEO;of;Sniffapalooza
•;Victoria;Frolova,;perfume;industry;analyst,;researcher;and
journalist
•;Jenny;Tillotson,;sensory;designer;for;eScent
“Fragrance is about beauty, culture and intelligence,”
remarked Frolova when discussing her passion behind her
fragrance blog, Bois de Jasmin. “I think with my nose,” added
Dubin when introducing herself and her international fragrance
enthusiast;organization,;Sniffapalooza.;Dubin;has;been;praised
for her efforts in bringing more attention to perfumers, who
have typically remained behind the scenes within the industry.“I
wanted to invent a way to deliver fragrances for well-being,”
explained Tillotson as she brushed upon her background in
sensory;fashion;with;a;focus;on;eScent,;a;platform;that;emits
micro doses of fragrances designed to enhance mood.
Each of the panelists provided a unique perspective on
how the fragrance industry has evolved through technology
and social media. Because consumers have the means to
research fragrances on their own, the market is seeing more
complex fragrances everywhere from fine fragrance to air care
to personal care. Now that information is readily available to
consumers, “people are looking for authenticity and stories to
connect with brands,” said Frolova. Companies are listening
closely to what consumers are looking for, the panel explained,
as trends are now veering toward complex and exotic ingredi-
ents such as incense, oud and spices. Collaboration is the new
competition, added Jones when discussing trends and innova-
tion.;This;includes;sampling;technology,;like;Scents;of;Place,
a device that emits fragrances for a customized experience for
each customer. More interactive advertising and instant com-
munication throughout social media offer the opportunity to
strengthen communication between consumers and fragrance
companies. However, all four speakers unanimously agreed
that social media also opens the opportunity for pseudoscien-
tific advice on ingredient integrity.
RIFM Fragrance Panel: Consumer Insights and Technology