To that end, clients are realizing that consumers are becoming more interested in ingredients and high quality, according
to Blanc:
“As a perfumer, the palette is huge. Now how much we can
use it depends [on project parameters] … [ W]e should push fur-
ther to be able to use more because we have gorgeous materials
[available]. If you have the right balance between the natural
and the [synthetic] molecules, it has a much more beautiful fra-
grance. And we have to find a way to educate the consumer.”
Chelariu said sometimes less is more with ingredients. A new
molecule, she said, “gives the edge to create the next blockbuster.”
Barel mentioned that most of the time when a company is
launching a new natural they are either solving a problem or
filling a hole in the palette. “It’s a critical thing,” she added.
When it comes to creating fragrances, the perfumers agreed
that time pressure to create perfumes can be an issue.
“When you create something with one person, the client, and
you get this connection, you go on a … journey, and we don’t
get to do this enough today,” said Blanc. “I wish we had a little
bit more time to incorporate this.”
Chelariu agreed that sometimes perfumers don’t have enough
time to develop a fragrance to its full potential before it goes out
From left: Lauren Simpson, Grace Garcia, Jennifer Powderly, and Cari Moliterne
(all of Robertet).
From left: Joanne Halev (Firmenich) and Honorine Blanc (Firmenich).
the door: “Working closely with the development team, especially
on the client side, is very important because you create a com-
mon language within the project, so when you closely work with
a client you kind of understand the nuances of the fragrance.”
She added, “I always had a very good success when I had a
chance to develop fragrances closely with the client.”
As for the future of fragrance, Becker said the industry should
explore the possibility of using computer-assisted fragrance devel-
opment, similar to what fashion designers would use.
“I think technology is going to play a key role in the future,”
she said.
Chelariu added, “I think technology is going to play a much
bigger role in fragrances. I think we’re going to find a new way
of wearing fragrances.”
Barel said she sees innovation led by music and the arts, and
that she’s interested in the rapid growth in emerging markets:
“It’s going to bring great opportunities for traditional perfum-
ery.” Meanwhile, Blanc expects opportunities will evolve from
current challenges: “I’m very optimistic. I think even sometimes
it’s hard [when] sometimes molecules disappear, [but] then we
are forced to create something new.”
