Perfumer & Flavorist - October 2013

“It’s the duty of the fragrance industry to protect its raw materials,” says Hervé Fretay, marketing director for specialty ingredients at Givaudan. “If the producers of vetiver, patchouli or iris switch to growing wheat or coffee, nobody else would care, but it would have a devastating impact on the fragrance industry.” Even more significant is the impact on the producing regions in the long run, in terms of both economic and social indicators. Many communities, in particular the most economically vulnerable ones, depend considerably on the cash income generated by the sale of wild cropped botanicals like benzoin resin in Laos, olibanum gum in Somaliland or immortelle flowers in Montenegro. Reggio Calabria, historically one of the poorest regions in Italy, has improved its economic situation over the past decade thanks to bergamot production; it derives 30% of its income from citrus oil production, and supplies 90% of the bergamot oil used in fragrance and flavor formulations.

Loss of Specialized Knowledge

The diminishing production of raw materials also leads to the
loss of traditional know-how and skills, another important factor
with wide-reaching consequences. The collection of benzoin is
not a complicated process—the incision is made in the bark of
the trees from April to July, and the benzoin gum is harvested
during the winter months. However, knowing which trees to
tap and how to shift the cultivation cycle makes a difference in
yield and quality.

Other botanicals require much more intricate farming methods, or a more nuanced experience in evaluating characteristics like the hue of ylang-ylang petals or the feel of perfectly cured vanilla beans. As the younger people leave for the cities, the knowledge of traditional practices dies with the older generation.

The current debate on agriculture pits issues like sustainability against genetic modification, the higher prevalence of plant diseases against the negative consequences of pesticide use, and other pressing challenges. The latest recommendations of the United Nations Environment Program ( www.unep.org) emphasize intercropping and diversity, shifting away from the monoculture focus of the 1970s.

In this light, perfumery materials have the hallmark features of sustainable agricultural products. They are a valuable crop,

The fragrance industry supports social, scientific and market innovations throughout Europe and the globe via direct investments in sustainable jobs—this was the message the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), sponsored by MEP Marielle Gallo of France, delivered recently to the E.U. Parliament.

IFRA’s exhibit, “Innovation in Every Sense,” highlighted the essential oils of Calabria, Italy, displayed by the Capua family, which supplies bergamot oil. The ingredient’s complex citrus notes, IFRA explains, are found in about 1/3 of all masculine fine fragrances and 1/2 of all feminine fine fragrances. Capua Srl cooperates with the local community on education and distribution projects with a focus on mutual benefit.

The exhibit also showed the fragrance industry’s fine chemistry expertise in recreating the olfactory facets of rare and expensive naturals such as ambergris. The material, expelled digestive juices and mucus of sperm whales, can fetch €150,000 at auction.

Finally, “Innovation in Every Sense” evoked the setting of the Paris Metro at rush hour to highlight the well-being and hygienic effects of fragrance in consumers’ everyday lives. These innovations, developed between fragrance houses and brand owners, leverage technologies such as encapsulation systems and specifically designed, emotionally targeted scents.

The event provided visitors with tangible insights into the innovations driving growth in the industrial and creative sectors throughout Europe and beyond.