Forward Thinking: Crafting Beauty
with Nature’s Resources
Demand continues to increase for natural products in fine fragrance
and skincare.
Amy Marks-McGee, Trendincite LLC; amy@trendincite.com; 1-888-561-1229
Trendincite’s “Forward Thinking: Au Natural” article, which appeared in the October 2011 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist magazine, researched activity in “natural”
fragrances and flavors. Two years later, the demand for naturals
continues to increase as natural products evolve. This article
focuses on natural products within the beauty segment, including
fine fragrance and skincare.
Not to be dismissed, the natural trend is influencing food and
beverage introductions, as well as pet products. In March 2013,
Trendincite’s “Forward Thinking: Health Matters” appeared
in Perfumer & Flavorist magazine and focused on healthful
food and beverage products,
which included activity in
natural flavors. According to
MarketsandMarkets, the global
market for natural flavors was
estimated to be worth $3.5 billion in 2011, and is predicted to
reach $5 billion by 2017. The natural ingredients trend has even
trickled down to pet products. Packaged Facts estimates that
U.S. retail sales of natural pet products totaled $4.1 billion in
2012. For example, Rachel Ray’s Nutrish Naturally Delish natural wet dog food is a new product that’s inspired by the chef’s
recipes for humans.
Packaged Facts also forecasts that the U.S. consumer market
for natural and organic skincare, haircare, and makeup could
reach $11 billion by 2016. In the past, to differentiate and
attract consumers, products called out specific ingredients and
their benefits. Now the newest trend is to call out what ingredients the products do not contain with “free of” claims such
as “chemicals,” “toxins” and “parabens.” Gluten-free and non-GMO (genetically modified organism) claims are other current
buzz terms in food and beverages, and are slowly making their
way into beauty care. Additionally, niche independent brands
are launching unique products with interesting botanicals, while
herbalists are becoming the new product formulators. Innovation
in naturals is flourishing in fine fragrance and skincare.
Fragrance Naturally
There has been an influx of independent fine fragrance brands
launching and competing with the established players. More
and more niche brands are launching natural fragrances to meet
consumer demands and expectations.
Kristi Head and Anne Sanford are behind the Lurk brand,
and in 2012 launched a line of natural perfumes, which are, like
many independent niche offerings, hand-blended and made
with essential oils in a base of organic jojoba. According to the
company, they do not use chemical preservatives, stabilizers or
additives. Currently, there are five scents in the line, including RSW005, which features Rose Maroc (Rosa centifolia) and
sandalwood (Santalum album), and BS 003, with sandalwood
(Santalum album), bergamot (Citrus bergamia), lemon (Citrus
limonum) and black pepper (Piper nigrum). House of Matriarch,
a Seattle-based perfume company, offers a Luxury Naturals line,
which features 13 natural fragrances. According to the company,
75% of the raw materials in the perfumes are from materials
grown in the Washington
State region. Destiny is
the company’s top seller
and was originally made “to
combat seasonal affective
disorder during the dark Seattle winters,” and uses two varieties of jasmine, in addition to gardenia, neroli and lemongrass.
Nomad Two Worlds released Raw Spirit—Fire Tree, a limited-edition blend of Australian sandalwood and fire tree (Myrica
faya) oils that were sustainably harvested. The fragrance is said
to be non-toxic, free of harsh petrochemicals and parabens.
Perfumer Laurie Erickson of Sonoma Scent Studio crafts her
fragrances with both natural ingredients and “carefully selected
synthetics to achieve effects not possible with naturals alone.”
In 2013, Erickson added Sonoma Naturals, “a new collection in
progress, made with 100% natural ingredients in a base of natural organic alcohol or organic oil.” Cocoa Sandalwood, the first
in the collection, launched in January 2013. It is created with
cocoa absolute, coffee absolute, ginger CO2 extract, cinnamon
bark essential oil, clove bud absolute, natural peach lactone, rose
absolute, Virginia cedar, New Caledonia sandalwood absolute,
ambrette seed CO2 extract and vanilla. Spiced Citrus Vetiver,
launched in May 2013, contains blood orange, bergamot, ginger
CO2 extract, cinnamon bark CO2 extract, clove bud absolute,
jasmine sambac absolute, osmanthus absolute, Sri Lanka vetiver
essential oil, Indonesian vetiver CO2 extract, Virginia cedar, Indian
Mysore sandalwood essential oil and vanilla. Amber Incense is
the third fragrance and is expected in the fall. Sarabecca Natural
Perfume launched in May 2013 and is “crafted entirely from
natural oils and essences.” It is available in two fragrances: Day
and Night. Day is a fresh white floral that highlights jasmine,
tuberose and muguet, while Night features vetiver, patchouli
and amber, with lemon, bergamot, sage and ginger.
According to Kline & Co., the natural personal
care category is expected to reach $6.6 billion
in 2015, up from $3.9 million in 2010.
